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Jeans are an iconic symbol of American culture. But what are jeans, though? Jeans are trousers, typically blue, that use denim. Denim is made with horizontal and vertical threads. Jeans actually got their name from the French town Nîmes. Serge de Nîmes was used to refer to the fabric from Nîmes, but over time, it was shortened to just denim. Levi Strauss patented his design for jeans in 1873, a year that you might find if you look inside your Levi’s jeans. The design was revolutionary as it incorporated metal rivets, which would reinforce the pants and make them more durable. This was important because jeans were used as workwear; people like miners would use them during their jobs. Since then, jeans have become a staple in casual wear in the United States.
While jeans are a simple garment for most people, some denim enthusiasts take the garment to another level, even seeking out raw denim. Raw denim differs from mall denim for one key reason: it is not washed before sale. Usually, jeans are sanforized, meaning they are treated and slightly preshrunk before production. In contrast, raw denim is exactly what it sounds like: raw.
Raw denim tends to be stiffer, and, most importantly, the indigo dye that gives it its blue color can fade. Fading is the process by which jeans lose indigo dye in areas where they are most stressed. For instance, frequent bending would put significant stress on the knee; therefore, the knee section would be a lighter blue than the rest of the garment, with raw denim (please see more pictures online for a better view). This fading is prized as it marks a pair of denim as uniquely yours; it has faded with your movement. To maximize the contrast between lighter and darker colors, some people refrain from washing jeans for months, believing it helps the process. Many jeans you find at the mall are already faded, yet the fades seldom seem natural.
Beyond the risk of fading, raw denim jeans are generally higher quality. Many raw denim jeans have selvedge on the inside of the pant leg. Selvedge requires a longer production process. Today, projectile looms are used to mass-produce jeans, whereas a shuttle loom, which would take about five times longer, would produce this selvedge line. This emphasis on craftsmanship over efficiency indicates greater attention to detail, which correlates strongly with quality. The top-of-the-line Japanese denim from brands like Samurai uses heavyweight fabrics and tight stitching. Even the brand Naked and Famous has produced a pair of ultra-heavyweight raw denim forty-oz jeans, selling out of the $2,000 jeans. Raw denim is simply the standard for quality jeans.
It’s no secret that clothing quality continues to deteriorate. With the rise of fast fashion, clothing is produced on a massive scale, cutting corners. Denim enthusiasts fight this change with a return to traditional workwear and the emphasis on quality clothing that lasts.
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